Copley News: Beauty Book from Regan by Chandra Orr September 2005 Plenty of new products are hitting drug store shelves claiming to deliver professional-quality highlights sans salon. But according to the experts, there is an art to at-home highlighting -- and sometimes it's just best to see a professional. "If the hair is in good condition -- not over-processed -- then at-home kits are fine," said Susie Galvez, author of "Ooh La La! Perfect Hair" (Mq Publications, $15) and owner of Face Works Day Spa in Richmond, Va. "If the hair has been colored and highlighted previously, it is best to have a professional involved." Shopping for the right highlighting kit can be a project in itself, but three basic rules apply. Select a kit based on hair color rather than the end result shown on the box. Watch for products that contain a high concentration of ammonia. Finally, look for kits that contain special highlighting combs for applying the solution. "It's best to start with highlights one or two shades lighter than your actual hair color," said Paula Conway, author of "The Beauty Buyble: The Top 100 Beauty Products of 2006" (Regan Books, $20), which will be packaged with 50 free samples. "This way, if you do make a mistake it won't be too obvious. "Even better, take the color you want to your hair dresser and have your colorist advise you on which brand or color will be right for you and how to use it. A good colorist will not be offended that you want to go 'bottle' instead of coming to them," she said. "They should give you some advice and show you how to use the product. If they are offended, they are not a good colorist for you." Brunettes must take special care when selecting at-home coloring kits. "I do not recommend applying highlights on very dark hair at home," Galvez said. "Home products, in most cases, are not as strong (as professional products), therefore the highlights could turn out orange or deep yellow -- not a good idea," she said. Brunettes who do opt to color at home should avoid products containing ammonium as a top ingredient. According to Conway, ammonium tends to produce brassy highlights on dark hair and causes damage more than other ingredients. "Don't try to give yourself sun-blonde highlights if your hair is dark brown to black -- or you'll end up looking like a skunk," she said. For beginners, Conway recommends Clairol Herbal Essences. "It's a good home highlighting product to start with because it's a low-ammonia formula," Conway said. "It's also easy to use because it comes with an evenly spaced highlighting comb, which makes it hard to mess up." Galvez prefers L'Oreal and Garnier. "They are both gentle and very reliable," Galvez said. "The colors actually look like what's on the box." Garnier Nutrisse Nourishing Multi-Lights, for example, come in a range of highlight shades tailored to hair color -- blondes can choose from platinum or honey highlights, while the brunette shades give subtle, non-brassy highlights. L'Oreal Couleur Experte takes it up a notch with two-step highlighting. Apply the base coat of color all over then apply the coordinating highlights. Even the best home highlights may require some tinkering and, eventually, professional intervention may be required. "It's time to hit the salon when your roots are showing, your ends are dry or your color is fading," Conway said. Such damage can occur after just a few applications. "I recommend that on the third time, head to the salon," Galvez said. "A colorist will be able to correct the color base." Plus, a trip to the salon means more options as the latest highlighting looks are hard to do at home. "The trend in highlighting is to use two, three or more colors for the highlights," Galvez said. "Not only is it difficult to apply the highlights in a consistent manner, but it is expensive for home use as two or more kits are needed." Foil highlights, which add just a touch of color, are also big for fall. "Very fine sections of hair are placed into foils with the product, then folded to keep the product in place and closest to the roots," Conway said. "This is not something you can do at home." © Copley News Service Visit Copley News Service at www.copleynews.com.

Self Magazine September 2006 Issue recommends Paula Conway's "The Beauty Buyble". Buy it now at Amazon.com.   "The Beauty Buyble" featured on Good Morning America